Something hit me yesterday when I noticed that Freja didn't re-book Rick Owens or Gareth Pugh this season. There's a change a foot and I think it's in the way people are perceiving her look. I get an overall sense that she's being styled more femininely this season when compared to the past 2-3 seasons. Does anyone else feel it too? And her first time appearance at shows like Anna Sui and Oscar de la Renta, and re-appearance at shows like Carolina Herrera seem to confirm my suspicions. Couple this with her absence at two of the most tough and androgynous shows and the notion is nearly inarguable. All of this is too much for coincidence.
Needless to say, I'm thrilled because I've talked about wanting this femininity to return numerous times. People forget that when Freja started out she wasn't all tough, broody and dressed in head to toe black. She was playful, full of levity and rocking some of the best feminine looks on the catwalks. It's nice to see that the industry is finally rediscovering this side of her after a few seasons of relegating her to the de rigueur androgynous model role.
But I have to wonder what caused this change in perception? It couldn't just be the hair, right? I refuse to believe that something as important as a model's image hinges on something as fleeting as the length of her hair. (Hmmm....but this is fashion after all--an industry based entirely on outward appearance.) Perhaps it's partly attributable to Meisel? When I think back to Freja's career over the past few seasons, these are the only two differences I detect that make this season different from the other ones. Anyway, just something interesting that I wanted to point out. Thoughts? Agree? Disagree?
Friday, March 5, 2010
A Change in Perception
Labels:
Androgyny,
Femininity,
Masculinity,
Musings,
Rick Owens
Thursday, March 4, 2010
Dries Love
I usually don't take this space to dwell on designers, but I really wanted to write about my love for the Dries Van Noten show yesterday. And considering it was the first show Freja walked in to start off her Paris Fashion week, I thought this would be as appropriate a time as I would ever get. (Besides, it's no secret how I feel about Dries.)
I know I'm not equipped with the necessary technical vocabulary to express the beauty of these clothes, but I do know when something is so beautiful and so perfect that I just can't get it out of my mind. So, how do I even begin to describe the show yesterday?
It was elegant, yet basic. Wearable, yet aspirational. Simple, yet complex. Straightforward, yet deceptive. Maybe I like Dries so much because I think his clothes exist simultaneously on both ends of the spectrum, much like Freja and her ability to be both masculine and feminine, classic and contemporary, commercial and cerebral. I seem to be drawn towards things that can paradoxically embody opposing, even conflicting, notions. I guess that incongruity is what makes something interesting to me.
In addition to the above, my love for Dries also comes from the way he's able to execute the cut, fit, volume, proportion and silhouette of his clothing. Along with impeccable tailoring, I think he really has a masterful command of all these elements so he's free to play around with them and draw out new ideas from them. After all, it takes real skill to make something as mundane and ubiquitous as as grey sweatshirt seem impossibly luxurious and polished.
And elements like cinched waists, broad shoulders, upright collars, and color blocking take this collection beyond basics that you can find in any shop, for they all have that special Dries touch.
You see that touch in the way his pants start out with a lot of volume on top, but gradually reduce down by way of straps and zippers as your eye descends to the feet. You see it in his use of leopard print and muted floral patterns; not two things you would ever put together, but in his hands they seem right. You see it in his layering, and in something as simple, but so beautiful, as his slouchy cut-off sleeves.
And the bags....oh, the bags. I would die happy swimming in a sea of these.
Dries clothing is about as far away as you can get from my own personal style, but I think that's why I love it so much every season. It's special and meaningful beyond being something that I want to wear. It's always a collection that makes me reevaluate what I think I know about good clothing and how to dress. But more importantly, it's a collection that always makes me dream. And that's fashion at it's best.
Image Credits: style.com
I know I'm not equipped with the necessary technical vocabulary to express the beauty of these clothes, but I do know when something is so beautiful and so perfect that I just can't get it out of my mind. So, how do I even begin to describe the show yesterday?
It was elegant, yet basic. Wearable, yet aspirational. Simple, yet complex. Straightforward, yet deceptive. Maybe I like Dries so much because I think his clothes exist simultaneously on both ends of the spectrum, much like Freja and her ability to be both masculine and feminine, classic and contemporary, commercial and cerebral. I seem to be drawn towards things that can paradoxically embody opposing, even conflicting, notions. I guess that incongruity is what makes something interesting to me.
In addition to the above, my love for Dries also comes from the way he's able to execute the cut, fit, volume, proportion and silhouette of his clothing. Along with impeccable tailoring, I think he really has a masterful command of all these elements so he's free to play around with them and draw out new ideas from them. After all, it takes real skill to make something as mundane and ubiquitous as as grey sweatshirt seem impossibly luxurious and polished.
And elements like cinched waists, broad shoulders, upright collars, and color blocking take this collection beyond basics that you can find in any shop, for they all have that special Dries touch.
You see that touch in the way his pants start out with a lot of volume on top, but gradually reduce down by way of straps and zippers as your eye descends to the feet. You see it in his use of leopard print and muted floral patterns; not two things you would ever put together, but in his hands they seem right. You see it in his layering, and in something as simple, but so beautiful, as his slouchy cut-off sleeves.
And the bags....oh, the bags. I would die happy swimming in a sea of these.
Dries clothing is about as far away as you can get from my own personal style, but I think that's why I love it so much every season. It's special and meaningful beyond being something that I want to wear. It's always a collection that makes me reevaluate what I think I know about good clothing and how to dress. But more importantly, it's a collection that always makes me dream. And that's fashion at it's best.
Image Credits: style.com
Labels:
Analysis,
Dries Van Noten,
Musings,
Paris Fashion Week
Wednesday, March 3, 2010
The Light at the End
The picture above basically sums up what I've said to my life these past three weeks. But no matter now because the end is near and in about a week I can stop neglecting my friends, my work and my health. For Paris Fashion Week is here! The last city for the FW1011 season and thank goodness for that.
Will Freja keep up her stellar runway record here? What shows can we expect to see her walk in? Like in all the other cities, I'm sure we'll see her pop up unexpectedly at a show she hasn't walked since her early days. The question is, which one will it be? I'm secretly hoping for Ann Demeulemeester (a show she's only walked once in her first season) but I know that's nearly impossible. But if these past few weeks have taught us anything, it's that we should throw our long held assumptions out the door (Hello Vogue Italia cover shot by Steven Meisel). Maybe it will be Givenchy? Or maybe it will be something else entirely out of left field? Place your bets.
Anyway, speaking of Vogue Italia, the editorial is out but I'm waiting for some HQs before I do a write up on it. Also, there's just too much to say and the sheer excitement of it all is threatening to render me speechless, so I'm just going to take the time to let my thoughts marinate. From what I can see so far though, it's a beautiful editorial.
Image Credits: imaxtree.com
Tuesday, March 2, 2010
Milan FW1011 Recap
In all the excitement I nearly forgot that the Milan shows ended.
Milan Fashion Week F/W 10.11 - 12 Shows Total
2 Opening Slots
1 Closing Slot
Alberta Ferretti - 1 Look
Dolce & Gabbana - 2 Looks
Emilio Pucci - 2 Looks
Etro - 2 Looks
Fendi - 2 Looks
Gianfranco Ferre - 2 Looks
Gucci (O) - 3 Looks
Jil Sander - 1 Look
Marni - 3 Looks
Max Mara (O) (C) - 3 Looks
Roberto Cavalli - 1 Look
Versace - 2 Looks
Milan brought us a week full of ups and one down. Freja started off by walking in Fendi last Thursday. Good old reliable Karl....never stop your professional love for Freja please. It comforts us when bad things happen, like Freja not walking for Prada. But that's water under the bridge because the rest of the week more than made up for it.
Friday brought Freja's second time walking the runway for Alberta Ferretti, the first time being a year ago during the FW0910 season. She went from looking soft and feminine at that show, to looking ultra modern and sleek at Gianfranco Ferre. Things would have been perfect for me had their FW0910 campaign girl Karolin Wolter also walked the show, but she completely missed out on Milan, much to my devastation.
However, the day continued with Freja walking for Versace and Jil Sander. The latter was a nice surprise and brought back many memories of her early seasons when she was a regular. I've noticed that a lot this season. Freja has been walking shows she hasn't done in a while, and she's even looking once again like the young, bright eyed model fresh from Denmark. I don't know if it's just what I want to see, or if something has happened but I do know that I like it. A lot.
Saturday was by far Freja's biggest day with four shows and a few key runway slots. The day started when she opened and closed Max Mara. I really hope this means the odds are good for an upcoming campaign, because that would be amazing. I think her image now fits the brand quite nicely, for she has definitely matured into a sophisticated, reliable model.
Freja walked for Etro next (in two completely disparate looks), before going on to open Gucci...an appearance that surely shocked Natasha fans who were expecting their queen to either open or close (or both!) the show considering that she's the current face of the brand. I wonder what this means for the upcoming campaign? I personally hope it goes to a new face. *cough* Karmen *cough*
The day ended with Freja walking for Emilio Pucci. I'll be honest, after last season's slight walking fiasco, I wasn't sure if she'd be back but thankfully she was. I hope this means that we'll see Freja at Rykiel again, despite the fact that she stuck out like a sore thumb last season.
Freja kept going strong on the last day of shows for her. She reliably walked for Marni in the morning. I know not everyone "gets" the eccentric, haphazard Marni woman; but it's a show that I absolutely love for its whimsy and calculated craziness. It's also a show that I love seeing Freja walk for, and I would have been really disappointed had she not.
Dolce & Gabbana was her next stop and she made quite the impression as the second girl out. Most people couldn't even remember if Freja had walked the show before, but old school fans know that she was a regular going way back for both of Domenico and Stefano's brands. Needless to say, it was nice to see her walking for them again.
Milan ended with Freja walking for Roberto Cavalli, and with us getting the biggest news we could get as Freja fans. :)
What a week, what a week. Are you exhausted yet? Well, the end is near with Paris shows starting tomorrow and going on for a week before FW1011 is over. I don't think there's anything left for Freja to surprise us with, but I could be wrong. You can never underestimate a heavily tattooed model who comes back with her first Steven Meisel lensed Vogue Italia cover five years into her career.
Image Credits: style.it, tmagazine
Milan Fashion Week F/W 10.11 - 12 Shows Total
2 Opening Slots
1 Closing Slot
Alberta Ferretti - 1 Look
Dolce & Gabbana - 2 Looks
Emilio Pucci - 2 Looks
Etro - 2 Looks
Fendi - 2 Looks
Gianfranco Ferre - 2 Looks
Gucci (O) - 3 Looks
Jil Sander - 1 Look
Marni - 3 Looks
Max Mara (O) (C) - 3 Looks
Roberto Cavalli - 1 Look
Versace - 2 Looks
Milan brought us a week full of ups and one down. Freja started off by walking in Fendi last Thursday. Good old reliable Karl....never stop your professional love for Freja please. It comforts us when bad things happen, like Freja not walking for Prada. But that's water under the bridge because the rest of the week more than made up for it.
Friday brought Freja's second time walking the runway for Alberta Ferretti, the first time being a year ago during the FW0910 season. She went from looking soft and feminine at that show, to looking ultra modern and sleek at Gianfranco Ferre. Things would have been perfect for me had their FW0910 campaign girl Karolin Wolter also walked the show, but she completely missed out on Milan, much to my devastation.
However, the day continued with Freja walking for Versace and Jil Sander. The latter was a nice surprise and brought back many memories of her early seasons when she was a regular. I've noticed that a lot this season. Freja has been walking shows she hasn't done in a while, and she's even looking once again like the young, bright eyed model fresh from Denmark. I don't know if it's just what I want to see, or if something has happened but I do know that I like it. A lot.
Saturday was by far Freja's biggest day with four shows and a few key runway slots. The day started when she opened and closed Max Mara. I really hope this means the odds are good for an upcoming campaign, because that would be amazing. I think her image now fits the brand quite nicely, for she has definitely matured into a sophisticated, reliable model.
Freja walked for Etro next (in two completely disparate looks), before going on to open Gucci...an appearance that surely shocked Natasha fans who were expecting their queen to either open or close (or both!) the show considering that she's the current face of the brand. I wonder what this means for the upcoming campaign? I personally hope it goes to a new face. *cough* Karmen *cough*
The day ended with Freja walking for Emilio Pucci. I'll be honest, after last season's slight walking fiasco, I wasn't sure if she'd be back but thankfully she was. I hope this means that we'll see Freja at Rykiel again, despite the fact that she stuck out like a sore thumb last season.
Freja kept going strong on the last day of shows for her. She reliably walked for Marni in the morning. I know not everyone "gets" the eccentric, haphazard Marni woman; but it's a show that I absolutely love for its whimsy and calculated craziness. It's also a show that I love seeing Freja walk for, and I would have been really disappointed had she not.
Dolce & Gabbana was her next stop and she made quite the impression as the second girl out. Most people couldn't even remember if Freja had walked the show before, but old school fans know that she was a regular going way back for both of Domenico and Stefano's brands. Needless to say, it was nice to see her walking for them again.
Milan ended with Freja walking for Roberto Cavalli, and with us getting the biggest news we could get as Freja fans. :)
What a week, what a week. Are you exhausted yet? Well, the end is near with Paris shows starting tomorrow and going on for a week before FW1011 is over. I don't think there's anything left for Freja to surprise us with, but I could be wrong. You can never underestimate a heavily tattooed model who comes back with her first Steven Meisel lensed Vogue Italia cover five years into her career.
Image Credits: style.it, tmagazine
Monday, March 1, 2010
The VI Cover
I'm still in a daze. A wonderful, dreamy daze.
The word classic comes to mind. There's just something to be said for a beautiful cover with a beautiful model. Yes, beautiful. Even if you're not a Freja fan it would be ludicrous to say that she isn't beautiful. I know it's subjective, but please let's be real. I know it's too early to say, and of course I'm biased, but I hope this cover becomes an iconic one in the history of VI, simply for what it stands for and for what it means to models. After all, Freja is a model who has seemingly defied all norms and odds to reach the pinnacle of success in her field.
No frills (except for the clothes), no thrills; just clean, straightforward, feminine beauty. Thank you Meisel for getting over whatever qualms you had and finally making this happen. Freja fans around the world are rejoicing right now for sure. And thank you fashion industry for showing everyone that hard work, perseverance, dedication to craft, and steady evolution CAN win out in the end sometimes; that luck and fickleness are not always the major determining factors in a model's career. Speaking for all the long time fans out there (and there are many), I can say that we're absolutely elated and that this couldn't have happened to a better more deserving model. I'm sure everyone reading this is a fan, but if you're not you have to at least respect what Freja has been able to accomplish over half a decade in an industry notorious for treating models like they literally are a dime a dozen.
Anyway, the features of Freja's face are unique in that they are both strong and delicate. This explains why she can go from doing androgynous editorials like this one, to feminine ones like this one. It's a very rare face that can handle both types of styling and aptly express such two different sides so well. Some people may not understand this feminine Freja, but it's something I've been hoping to see again for a very long. It's something who's lack of I've complained about countless times on this blog. Perhaps Freja's personality and off-duty street style have created an overshadowing persona, inhibiting some people from seeing anything else but androgyny? Well, it's their utter loss. And no matter, because the people who count can see it too and this cover is proof positive. Bravo Meisel. Brava Freja. Your fans have never been more proud!
Image Credits: vogue.it via tFS member tarsha
The word classic comes to mind. There's just something to be said for a beautiful cover with a beautiful model. Yes, beautiful. Even if you're not a Freja fan it would be ludicrous to say that she isn't beautiful. I know it's subjective, but please let's be real. I know it's too early to say, and of course I'm biased, but I hope this cover becomes an iconic one in the history of VI, simply for what it stands for and for what it means to models. After all, Freja is a model who has seemingly defied all norms and odds to reach the pinnacle of success in her field.
No frills (except for the clothes), no thrills; just clean, straightforward, feminine beauty. Thank you Meisel for getting over whatever qualms you had and finally making this happen. Freja fans around the world are rejoicing right now for sure. And thank you fashion industry for showing everyone that hard work, perseverance, dedication to craft, and steady evolution CAN win out in the end sometimes; that luck and fickleness are not always the major determining factors in a model's career. Speaking for all the long time fans out there (and there are many), I can say that we're absolutely elated and that this couldn't have happened to a better more deserving model. I'm sure everyone reading this is a fan, but if you're not you have to at least respect what Freja has been able to accomplish over half a decade in an industry notorious for treating models like they literally are a dime a dozen.
Anyway, the features of Freja's face are unique in that they are both strong and delicate. This explains why she can go from doing androgynous editorials like this one, to feminine ones like this one. It's a very rare face that can handle both types of styling and aptly express such two different sides so well. Some people may not understand this feminine Freja, but it's something I've been hoping to see again for a very long. It's something who's lack of I've complained about countless times on this blog. Perhaps Freja's personality and off-duty street style have created an overshadowing persona, inhibiting some people from seeing anything else but androgyny? Well, it's their utter loss. And no matter, because the people who count can see it too and this cover is proof positive. Bravo Meisel. Brava Freja. Your fans have never been more proud!
Image Credits: vogue.it via tFS member tarsha
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